Trip to the Kii Peninsula IV – Nachi

Rainy day

From where we left off, the next destination of our journey in the Kii Peninsula was Nachi Taisha, the second of the three grand Kumano shrines of our journey along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. It was a rainy day so instead of walking from Kumanogawa the last segment of the Nakahechi route, we took the bus to the port town of Shingu, and from there a train to the town of Nachi. Once there we started up the Daimonzaka - the upward cobbled slope toward Nachi Taisha shrine between enormous cedar trees. (Daimonzaka literally means "large gate slope", as there used to be a large gate nearby.) The 600 meter upward climb is a preserved section of the original path.

Not yet at the Daimonzaka, just a picturesque pathway past someone's residence.

At the beginning of the Daimonzaka are the twin Meoto sugi -
800 year old "Husband and Wife" cedar trees

The Daimonzaka path leading up the hill toward Nachi Taisha

Cobbled stones

The view between the misty trees

The Daimonzaka starts just outside of and leads into the town of Nachi proper.
We were lucky in that it stopped raining just about as we reached the top.

Small Buddhist shrine of Kannon

Looking down through the small town of Nachi

Approaching the famous Sanjuudo Pagoda

The Sanjuudo Pagoda - part of the Seiganto-ji Temple complex
which dominates much of the small town

Nachi-no-Otaki - "the big waterfall of Nachi"

Painted walls and ceilings inside the pagoda. This was the one of the only Buddhist
buildings we entered where photography was allowed.

The outer buildings of Seigantoji Temple, now a temple inn

The side view of the main hall of Seiganto-ji Temple

The Kumano Kodo pathway behind Seiganto-ji Temple.
Had we walked we would have entered the town here
and finished our visit down the Daimonzaka.

Buildings at Seiganto-ji Temple

The first torii gate entrance to Kumano Nachi Taisha

Yatagarasu - the three legged crow at Nachi Taisha

Kumano Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine Heiden (Offeratory Hall)

Each of the three different Kumano Grand Shrines was very different and had a different feel to them, but our trip to Nachi Taisha might have been my favourite. Even though it had been such a moving experience to see the huge gate of Hongu Taisha after walking in (near) solitude for four days, there was something about reaching Nachi Taisha which was very special and powerful. Even though we hadn't walked to Nachi, it was a difficult climb up the Daimonzaka in the rain, and the misty humid early summer air lent its own atmosphere when we finally reached the top.

At Nachi Taisha there is an ancient, sacred Camphor tree near the shrine which is said to have been planted by a nobleman in in the 12th century. The enormous tree is covered in moss and ferns. For a small donation we climbed through the tree through to a lookout over the valley. It was a really neat experience.

I also really enjoyed going into the pagoda (which had a lot of diverse Buddhist art on its three floors, even though each floor was a relatively small space. It does help that I can remember it from the photos I took.) The Nachi-no-Otaki waterfall was also amazing. This waterfall has been venerated since at least around the year 300, although the temple and shrine both are not quite that old.

All three Kumano Grand Shrines were amazing and I wouldn't say it would be better to visit one more than another, but Nachi was particularly amazing and awe-inspiring.

 

The sacred 850 year old Camphor tree

The view from inside the sacred tree

A Shinto priest tending the offering fires

Figure of Kannon at the front of the main hall of Seiganto-ji Temple

The corner between Shinto Shrine and Buddhist Temple

After Nachi Taisha we walked down the hill to the viewing area of the Nachi Waterfall, which is the sacred waterfall venerated by the Nachi Shrine. At 133 meters high it is the tallest waterfall in Japan. It was a beautiful walk through bamboo groves and finally to the base of the waterfall. We had previously commented that this trip was a trip of stairs, and this day was perhaps the most pronounced. There were a lot of steps to be climbed up and down on this day, too many to count.

Torii gate entrance to the stairs down to the waterfall

Nachi no Otaki waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Japan

Leaving Nachi, returning down the steps of the Daimonzaka.

Koi (carp) flags for Children's Day on May 5

Picturesque village homes in the mountains

Unused rice fields

This was the end of our time in Nachi. Our day was only half over, though, it wasn't even lunchtime yet! From Nachi we returned to Shingu, where we would visit the third and final Kumano Grand Shrine, along with several other amazing sights in the city.